March 30, 2010

Boys In Jewels - Part 1

Photo: The Sartorialist

Photo: Etienne Tordoir, courtesy of Raf Simons

I came across the top photo a while back on The Sartorialist's blog. It reminded me of a photo that appears in my book – of Atelier 11's ss04 jewellery for Raf Simons – and I thought that when I eventually started a blog of my own I'd like to post the two together. So here they are.

Diamond Geezer

When South African diamond cutter Basil Watermeyer decided to show his wife, Marion, exactly how much he loved her, he didn’t just buy her a diamond, he spent 15 months designing one.
Classily conflating his name with hers (well, it was 1971) he came up with the Barion – an early example of the new breed of so-called ‘mixed diamonds’ which combined improved brilliance with greater weight.
Easily identified by its characteristic central cross pattern and boasting and impressive 62 facets, the Barion cut went on to inspire a host of diamond designs including the radiant, quadrillion, and princess cuts.

Full Metal Jacket

Photo: Ronald Dick, featured in Pop – Issue 22 ss2010

Oh matching Moschino jacket and necklace combo, how I love thee. I don’t care if you let the wind whip through you, if you leak or rust, or if I need an off-shore account to have you. I want you. And your impracticalities just make me love you even more.

March 26, 2010

Great Scott

Photos: Julia Graef

I just nicked these from Scott Wilson's Facebook page - they're shots of the cuffs and belts he made for Peter Pilotto's AW10 catwalk collection.

Here they are in action...

And this is a cuff he made for Peter Pilotto's AW09 show, which features in my book.

March 23, 2010

Crystal Clear

Currently lighting up the windows of London’s Dover Street market, this installation of Baccarat chandeliers is Rei Kawakubo’s homage to the crystal-meisters’ latest jewellery collection. Designed in collaboration with Elie Top (the man behind Lanvin’s exquisite jewellery of late) Bouchons de Carafe is a range of hand-cut cocktail rings, pendants and bangles inspired by the stoppers of 100-year-old Baccarat brandy decanters and perfume bottles.

"I decided to go back to Baccarat’s roots”, says Top of the collection which launches in April. “For me, the name Baccarat suggests chandeliers, gleaming facets and French-style luxury. I aimed to revive these design codes, but with a touch of tongue-in-cheek humour. In French, one says that a diamond is ‘as big as a decanter stopper!’ The collection is a light-hearted take on this expression, as well as a respectful tribute to Baccarat."

Check out this clip of Top explaining it in his own words. It's worth a peek just to see his top (ahem) 'tache.

March 21, 2010

Woof Woof

The Hermès Collier du Chien started life in the 1930s as a collar designed for the bulldog of a wealthy Hermès client. Over the years the studded C.d.C has been re-incarnated in a multitude of styles – most often as a wrist cuff – much loved by wealthy Hermès clients. And much lusted after by me.

Above is the latest, diamond pavé-embellished Collier du Chien model.

Below, some oldies-but-goodies.

March 18, 2010

Givenchy's Gold Prize

Thought for the day: Does the fact that these babies are Givenchy Couture aw09 (and therefore officially last season) mean I can get a discount? 99% OFF should do it.

March 17, 2010

Adoring Adorn

Thanks to the lovely people at Adorn for giving my grey matter a good work out.

Even better - they're running a competition with Fashion Jewellery: Catwalk & Couture as the prize.

They also have a lovely write up of the Colette exhibition.

March 16, 2010

The Observer

Fashion Jewellery Catwalk & Couture makes the Observer Magazine's Wishlist on Sunday March 14th.

March 15, 2010

The Independent

Check out the lovely article by Rhiannon Harries in the The Independent on Sunday.

The book was also on The Observer Magazine's wishlist but I missed it. Will post as soon as I get my hands on a copy.

March 12, 2010

Lovely Bones

Sadly I don't have a photo of David and Martin's Fauna Futura necklace in situ at Colette, but this is what the finished item looks like. Love It.

Photo: Martin Vallin

The Real Deal

At last - some pix from the exhibition at Colette. No mean feat given their 'Strictly No Photos' policy, so a million thanks to Sabrina Dehoff's other half, Till Helmbold, for sending me these. Click on them for more detail.

Yoshiko's Bird Ring (below) came inside this dark metal egg...

Let's Colette A Day

The Selby has some friends round to play

Colette's jewellery corner with the Fashion Jewellery display on the right and the fab Scott Wilson in the background

Ever-ethereal, Diane Pernet makes an appearance

Dazed, Confused and Done In (that's my state of mind, not the three people in the photo...)

Thanks to the lovely Donna Watson for her bouncer-dodging undercover reportage and Karl Hab for the final shot

March 11, 2010

Sign Of The Times

Here's some pix from the signing itself. It's all a bit of a blur but it was great to finally meet some of the people I wrote about, and who I feel I know so well. You spend two years communicating with a person and imagining what they're like, then they show up looking totally different. Weird.

The Selby finally enters my lair!

Thanks to Karl Hab for the pix

March 10, 2010

Reality Bites

So on Friday, shortly after arriving in Paris, I hit Colette for an undercover reccy. I wanted to scout out the space and see what the jewellery exhibition looked like in real life.

On the way up to the 2nd floor I overheard a beautifully dressed, superbly camp American chap ask his friend: 'Did you see the costume jewellery upstairs? It's amaaaaaaaazing.'

I resisted the urge to correct him (the term costume jewellery's so last century) and settled instead for a smug inward grin.

If I'm totally honest, the display itself lacked a certain je ne sais quoi - the pieces were arranged in a row on a ledge – but if the throngs of people handling (and occasionally dropping) the jewellery were anything to go by, the merchandising wasn't putting them off.

Somehow, in all the commotion, I forgot to get a photo of the display. Until I track one down, here's a picture of the space with someone else's display in it. The ledge is visible at the back.

Downstairs, Todd Selby had set up home in the shop window. I went down, introduced myself and asked him to sign his book for me. It's gorgeous. I'm jealous.

Too much coffee, 4 neon green macaroons for lunch, and the anxiety of finally seeing the jewellery had left me twitchy and sweaty. I suspect Selby pegged me for an over eager fan. He looked nervous and grateful to have a pretty Japanese lady sandwiched between us.

Selby's Bedroom aka Colette's window

Selby's 'Front Door'